@Mckinise Fairly crushed blacks in low light. No surprise. Let us know when you've tested 0-255 vs 16-235.

Even tried this with the ol' GH3 ... seem to work nicely there although I'm dialing the contrast down a bit. Surprisingly for me all that sharpness doesn't seem to do the harm it does in Natural with most things dialed back like I've been using. Fun to watch the comments on the GH4 results ...

Neil

@zachasurp I have seen issues before editing RAW photos in Adobe Lightroom. I just couldn't understand what was going on for the life of me. After much trial and error I found turning off GPU acceleration cleared up all of my issues! The same thing may be happening in Premiere Pro CC.

Tried the Portrait settings from DVX user link...the skin tones look amazing straight out of cam...no grade tried yet, but this looks impressive!

I am asking if there is a difference when viewing the footage. I was getting a cleaner image with 16-235 selected.

@Mckinise what NLE are you using to view the footage? If you're seeing something different, then it likely means the NLE does not work well with footage marked as 0-255. Though rare, there are some programs that expect a 16-235 workflow and need to be explicitly told when working with 0-255 footage.

In most software though, there should be zero visible difference between these settings.

@Brumbazz

I really doubt that there's much benefit in going flat to have more latitude in a 8bit file, in my point of view how much you flat the colors the more tones will be baked in only one as there's not much latitude available in 8bit so you can sort all them. I'd like to have a opinion about this from @Vitaliy_Kiselev

I really didn't dig working in A7S footage in SLOG, there's no comparison with the ones from a F5 also in SLOG for example, in terms of being easy and natural to work with.

I'd rather work with footage from my GH4 with a more standard profile (tinkered of course) than with a full flat profile in 8bit.

So yes, i think that makes more sense, if working in 8bit, to get something closer to the final look, getting just a bit more from shadows and highlights so you can play with that.

I must be doing something wrong... with that modified portrait settings I get a severe contrasty image and skin tones (well, all footage!!) is green casted. Perhaps Astro is rigth. My lens is the Panasonic 14-140mm and I'm using 0-255. Although I live in Portugal, working hours don't let me have enough sun light to test properly changes to this settings. Anyone knows is this profile should work as well in artificial light with correct WB?

Jopereira you could try to change insettings: "tint". I think I use -1 or +1, I dont recall for the moment which it is.

@fancydancer Exactly my conclusions after lots of testing last year. My GH4 is now setup using Natural profile, contrast -2, everything else default. It grades really well on properly exposed footage. I would love to see a proper log setting on this camera with a matching LUT supplied from Panasonic. Maybe it could then grade ok in DaVinci Resolve without too much trouble. But I really don't care too much about that as I'm getting fine images using the above settings. For me log works best on high contrast scenes like bright sunny exteriors, where shadow detail and highlight detail can be critical.

@jopereira It's not really a matter of who is right. I've seen Cine-D footage that looks great, but it really does not work for me as I'm not into the whole retro 'cinematic' or 'filmic' thing. I've been working my whole life in the pro tv industry and never had a client ask for it. I LIKE modern imaging and I grade for a good looking image that suits the job. For MY work, Natural just works more easily at every stage of production & is easier to 'save' if the exposure is a bit off the ideal setting. Others here prefer to tinker with the settings to get a different look. That's fine, it works for them. Do a few tests yourself. Use different scene settings with the same exposure. Use over and under exposure. Record the settings and be precise with everything you do. Then you can setup the camera the way YOU like it. That's the real power of the GH4, it can be setup in many different ways!

Settings: Photo Style: Cinelike D Contrast: -5 Sharpness: 0 Noise Reduction: 0 Saturation: -5 Hue: 0 Exposure Mode: "M" manual AFS/AFF; AFS Cont. AF: Off Meter Mode: Center Weighted icon Highlight Shadows: Default I. Dynamic: Off I.Resolution: Off Master Ped: 0 Luminance Level: 0-255

@fancydancer

"Combining Cine-D with totally flat settings yields highly compressed mush".

http://blog.josephmoore.name/2014/11/05/why-cine-d-sucks/

I agree with that, I have noticed this "mush" before. But seems that all those LUT creators do not, since they all assumes people are using Cinelike D settings.