If there is enough interest, I can begin to expand the profiles to support more video modes and various hacks beyond Moon T8.

I created a profile for each ISO setting, including secondary settings for the ISO bugged modes (up to 2500 ISO for those) ("clean" is normal, "dirty" is with the bug in case you forget to fix the problem and shoot with the ISO bug)

These profiles were created using the Smooth film mode at -2 -2 -2 -2, though they will probably still work with other modes. What is being picked up here is mostly sensor ISO noise since Moon T8's bitrate is so high.

The end result is that I have been able to recover about 1 - 1.5 stops of extra detail in the shadows on my shots as opposed to it looking like a total mess of noise. If you shoot at crazy high ISO settings, it can't make a shot at 12,800 ISO look like 200 ISO, but as long as your footage is reasonable, you can greatly expand the usable dynamic range of the camera and color grading is that much better.

These profiles should be used FIRST before doing any other processing such as grading, sharpening, scaling, or color correction. Etc...

The 1080p24 profiles seem to work fine on footage shot in variable mode, for example, if you use the 80% mode for slight slow motion.

Here is a link to an Imgur gallery showing what the profiles are capable of: Gallery

Download links:

1080p24 24H

1080p24 24L

1080p24 EX24H (Ex. Tele Convert Mode)

720p60 SH

DRIFTWOOD 'moon T8' - 23.976p/29.97p/ 59.94p After interpreting some of the GH4 stuff in mp4 files AVCHD, and fine tuning the matrices, lowering the GOP Related stuff (to achieve more power in non death chart situations and subsequent higher bitrates) this setting should achieve better IQ with a stronger matrix to knock out any artefacting that people may be suffering with moon T7 on HBR/50p/60p modes.

Subsequently, you get a finer low frequency matrix that strives to knock out artefacting at the expense of QP and higher bitrates.

Ive settled on a QP rate control centre point of Q14 and the matrix adapted from the GH4 and improved has been tweaked to the max. However, its untested outside of me and needs your input.

Let me know how you get on.

Peak bitrates for all modes means only the best SD cards should be used. I doubt this will work in iA modes and iDynamic.

140Mbps to 148Mbps Intra 24p 52Mbps to 68Mbps 720p Upto 88+Mbps FSH/HBR

This is a TEST and report back setting!

Just Released: 5th Aug 2014 - Driftwood Spizz T7 - The Comfortable Setting!

101 Mbps Max 23.97fps(24p) 50Mbps Min-80Mbps Max 25p/30p 50Mbps Min-77Mbps Max 50p/60p

Very good IQ. Check it.

I have this problem with my GH2 : the plastic On/Off switch is broken. No easy to find a solution.

When i see how open a gh2, this part seems to be complicated to access if i find this little plastic piece.

What can i do ?

Thanks.

Since this patches are all a bit dated, I wanted to know if I they would work well on a 170MBps or faster Sand Disk card, like a SanDisk SDXC 64Gb 170MBps or faster.

Thanks in advance

Have a nice weekend

is it possible to get an custom version of the PTool to disable the Autofocus Border on my GH2, i want to have an clean HDMI Output. If software is not any longer maintained, is there an open source version of it? Thanks.

Now that almost 4 years has pased, and we can happily review all GH series camera and drive some conclusion about their appeal.

*GH1 sensor has the best cinematic image from the 3 models. dynamic range, better color no stange color cast.

*GH2 sensor has the better resolution, and more detail, less dynamic range and green cast on footage.

*GH3 has even better resolution even more detail more dynamic range and a magenta cast.

For all of you forum GH partners, which is the best sensor from the 3 when talking about CINEMATIC image.

Remeber cinematic is almost WHAT YOU SHOW AND WAHT YOU DONT. If not take a look at hobbit mess at HFR 4k. So more detail and image quality is not always better.

THe best GH1 footage ive ever seen Grate DOF control and amazing cinematography (thank you @arnarfjodur )

One of the best GH2 result out there. Tipical Low Dynamic range, high contrast on flat image. Grate final picture (thank you @cekrem )

If you have grate footage from GH2 and GH3 please feel free to share for better comparison.

Long live GH series, and VK for hacking them.

did anyone tried the Olympus 9-18mm (4/3 mount) on the GH2 with an adapter? I am interested in buying one, just wanted to know your opinion on this before spending the money. The adapter I want to buy is the "cheap" Viltrox JY-43F (45€) plus the lens Olympus 9-18 (300€ used).

I think this lens would be nice Wide on the Blackmagic Cinema Camera also no?

I have a question (as a novice who's an idiot)

I hear a lot about frame rates and settings... But I just want to know what settings I should have this hack at in 24h smooth cinema mode?

On my GH2 the only settings I seem to be able to change when filming is through the scroll wheel.

Next to where it says cinA there's a yellow number that says 2.5? I'm not sure what this represents other than darkness or brightness or frame rate. But what setting should this be with this hack for optimum results?

When I push the scroll button in it also makes a 0 to +3 which makes the screen go darker or brighter... So I'm unsure where to set things?

Sorry for the dumb questions but I'm hopeless with this stuff and would appreciate any help. I'm so busy with a kid I just want a simple answer for filming without the hassles.

Thank you!

However, I find these to be more pronounced on the hacked GH2 than on any other 24p cam I used. Am I seeing things, or is it a reality?

Not only in my own video tests, but also when I watch other folks' videos, everything looks Saving Private Ryan / Battle Royale to me.

As if shutter speed was super high. Except it actually wasn't set that way! In my tests, I keep 180 deg shutter (about) with 1/50 at 24p. So then, why do we get that strobing, high-shutter-speed-like look?

So far I did no color grading - just plain cut with Edius.

Any feedback appreciated.

To access the old thread - go here: http://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/1817/colorghear-toolkit-color-grading-system-for-ae/p1

So as not to be misleading, ColorGHear is a system, and not so much a plug-in... a school of thought supported through the ColorGHear Toolkit -which is a set of MODULAR PRESETS for After Effects and ColorGHear Pro - which is a set of MODULAR LUTs for Davinci Resolve, FCP7, Premiere Pro, and Adobe Speedgrade, and is not what you'd consider a classical style plug-in.

The toolkit isn't a collection of drag and drop "looks" like Magic Bullet. It is a series of nodes which contain a set of grading instructions or "macros" (a set of operations), specially designed to work with each other to speed up your workflow. Along with these nodes, comes a system of grading which replaces having to perform the minutia of individual corrections by hand. Learned through the online tutorials, this system will give you speedy and precise grades. It is this precision that prevents you from "bending" your images like with standard methods which is what allows me to get such drastic and dramatic grades from normally flimsy DSLR codecs.

As a professional colorist, I noticed that because of the way the color channels in RGB video are tied together; that typical methods like the Color Balance tool, and the 3-way Color Corrector will actually bend an RGB image out of shape. So in order to maximize the full potential of any given image, I had to learn a method of grading that would avoid damaging the footage. I called this method "precision grading."

I also noticed that in executing these precision grades, I was performing the same operations over and over. I began taking notes on what these operations were, and trying to determine if it were possible to create a set of interacting preset nodes that would save me time in having to repeatedly perform these operations.

I soon discovered 37 distinct sets of operations that would serve to correctly grade any, and all footage. 6 of these macros cancel each other out, and only 1 of those 6 could be effectively used at any given time leaving me with 32 nodes - giving me 1,024 possible combinations. Over a thousand distinct grades. Over time, I added some other tools to the set which now sits at 74 nodes all of which are designed to be used in conjunction with the other nodes. (69, if you subtract the 5 canceling nodes) which brings the total to 4,761 distinct grades.

The precision method I mention above is demonstrated here. Along with how the 3-way Color Corrector damages your footage.

The power of ColorGHear is presented in the video demonstrations below.

ColorGHear is available at http://www.ColorGHear.com

(ColorGHear Pro not yet available to the public)

What do you think? Is it worth it the 40€+ for the GH2 compared to the G6? I've seen some footage comparisons and they seem to be really close, but that is without the crazy 100+MBs bitrate you can get out of some GH2's hacks...

Is the GH1 just good enough with stable 50MB's±? Maybe It is worth it to expend more on a way better lens? I am not focusing on features btw. Just pure IQ. Man I just love the Lumix look! but if you know of other hackable/Bang for buck (better than any of these in any case) cameras I should look for, please just tell me!

I know it's a lot but would really love some feedback. :) Cheers and thank you!!

I searched the forum and the whole internet for this problem, but didn't find any post or anyone having this problem, so I started a new topic for this and hope I didn't search for the wrong keywords... ;). I am using the GH2 for video shooting very short time and all I am doing these days is not really working well. I know that it should be easy to use firmware patches but for me it turns out not to be that easy as it maybe should. I used a few patches and tested around with each for quite a bit and tried to check wether the patch is working fine or if there are occuring errors while recording. I would need a very stable patch since I always need to record longer footage... not just 15min, but most of the time 2-3 hours. I found that SD card speed is a thing which is why I bought the SanDisk Extreme Pro with 95MB/sec. Used the Sanity 4.1 Patch which should be stable, but the cam stops recording video after some time (I couldn't specify when it does) without any error. It just stops recording and doesn't write the file completely to the card. Used the Quantum X SpanMyBitchUp and I get the same error. Also tried some other patches, some came up with errors that the card is not fast enough, some didn't... most of them didn't...

Since I can't tell why that is and I don't know how to find out why the cam stops recording I am not sure what to do next. Fact is that the patches really do enhance the quality which I would not love to miss ;).

Can anyone help me with this? All the best from Hamburg, Thomas

I know there is a lot of topic on this but I still can't make a clear decision. I'm going to film Podcast and concert, which of the 2 would handle these type of setting best?

I was hoping to record and stream at the same time, plus need to bypass the 30min recording limit. I am using my own GH5 and use the CIne-V colour profile and if possible recording at 422 All-I.

Would like some advice on: - Which hacked firmware to use? - Any experience with this setup? - What alternatives which I could potentially use with my M43 lenses under £400 / $500 secondhand?